Tempat Tempat Bersejarah Di Jerusalem (47pics)

abgsedapmalam

Jerusalem roads in search of miracles
I think it is clear that almost every guest visit to Jerusalem Israel is an indispensable item of the program. Someone interested in his multi-faceted history, someone is taking a pilgrimage tours, and someone just chasing contrasts and bright colors of this ancient city. Many seek enlightenment here, hoping for a miracle, try to find answers to their questions tormenting, others pay tribute to fashion or tradition. And almost all of his wandering through the ancient streets, visiting its main shrines, touching his past and present, have become a little different. We were no exception. Jerusalem amazed, delighted and left a deep impression in my memory. Because deep down we all have a child lives, believing and hoping for a miracle, and this city is easy to once again feel naive kids. During our walks in Jerusalem I was not feeling the proximity of a revelation, as if about to we will witness something mysterious and unknowable. After all, we were in the city, for which so much blood was shed and tears, in a city that, like a magnet draws to itself and the souls who never answer our questions, but rather the contrary generate many new ones. I try to describe (and it is not easy), here we see and feel, and you have to decide whether to get us a little bit to understand this city.

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Of course, I had pre-planned our route to Jerusalem, read many guides, some of which describe the main steps of its attractions. Many, probably a lot easier to take speaking guide for 100 dollars, ready to tell and show all that they know. They can easily find the Jaffa Gate on any day in the early morning. Only now I no longer use such services, not only because I think it's a waste of money (all necessary information now readily available on the Internet), but also because he used to learn new places for themselves, in their skin and your eyes feel and see all of their features.
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My walk through Jerusalem, we decided to start with the Wailing Wall, or as they call themselves Israelis, the Western Wall (Western Wall). First we crossed the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. (Sensations from there I have described earlier. Decent get stuff - I recommend!) To get to the wall, you must first be tested for metal detectors.
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Main sacred place for all Jews may disappoint his expressionless and simplicity. Wailing Wall - this is a fairly common wall of large stone blocks.Create an atmosphere of sacred space Orthodox Jews, especially the Hasidim. Their black hats, white capes, beards and sidelocks enliven apparent at first glance rather bleak picture.
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Near the walls there is always a recovery. Many of those present bobs included ecstasy of prayer, others busily scurrying around, third philosophically watching what happens. Funny look wives and girlfriends of tourists with cameras and phones on the preponderance of watching their husbands and friends because of the fence separating the wide men and women are much more narrow part of the wall.
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Huge empty space near the wall once held Moroccan Mughrabi Quarter. Jews for centuries for prayer meant only a narrow part of the street directly outside the walls. There are always conflicts broke out on religious grounds. Jews with enviable regularity generally closed access to their main shrine. Only after the 1967 Six Day War the city's appearance in this place has been radically changed. All Moroccan quarter was completely destroyed. Not without casualties, but the Jews were determined to put an end to centuries of humiliation of their faith. Now it can accommodate at one time nearly half a million believers.
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The area near the Western Wall during our visit was almost empty, most of the tourists concentrated in a giant queue for itself the Temple Mount (Temple Mount). We are also planning to visit the top of the mountain, for many centuries belonging to Muslims. I wanted to see near the holy Al-Aqsa (El-Aqsa Mosque) and the even more mysterious or Kubbat Dome of the Rock Al Sahra (Dome of the Rock), under a giant gilded vault, concealing a piece of rock, which is considered in all the major religions of the center of the Universe . Muslims ulterior motive turned the Temple Mount's third most important place of Islam after Mecca and Medina, thus forever including Jerusalem in part of their religion.
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Seeing stretched almost a kilometer turn to the entrance to the Temple Mount, we immediately change our plans. Too little time we had to spend it on useless state. Much of this activity has become more interesting to our walk along the outer wall encircling the sacred mountain of the east side.
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This is where are the famous Golden Gate, tightly walled Muslims. Perhaps it is through them came to the city, Jesus Christ, and most importantly, according to Jewish prophecies through these gates into the city will enter the Messiah, for a lifting of all saints buried in a nearby hill Maslechnoy (Mount of Olives).
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Muslims are not only the oldest walled gates of Jerusalem, but before it began to bury their best warriors with their weapons. Thus, in the case of indiscriminate resurrection of the dead, the problem with the defense of his shrine for Muslims would be solved.
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We passed along the wall of musulmansih graves until the next Lion's Gate almost alone. Many graves near the walls are in poor condition, however the atmosphere is awesome. Quiet, bright light of the midday sun and the breath-taking view of Mount of Olives worthy of the attention of any traveler.
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At some point you start to realize that you are in this realm of the dead, to some conventional boundaries between eras past and present. Graves visible until the horizon. Very strange feeling!
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From the Lion's Gate, we went down to the foot of the Mount of Olives. In the pictures clearly shows that part of the Mount of Olives is covered with greenery in the center of which visible dome of the Orthodox church and monastery of St. Mary Magdalene (St.Mary Magdalene).
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Here is worth the climb in order to find yourself in the cool shade of a local garden. Being here, you feel amazing peace and tranquility. This church was built on money Czar Alexander III and his family, but within it there are the relics of the holy martyrs Duchess Elizabeth and nun Barbara. Their fates are worthy of attention.
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The Grand Duchess and the sister of the last Russian Empress, and granddaughter of Queen Victoria, Elizabeth took monastic orders after the death of her husband from a terrorist bomb. She remembered many charitable affairs, she took care of the seriously wounded, rescued orphans.After the revolution, the Bolsheviks have taken the princess along with other members of the imperial family in the Urals. With her in self-imposed exile, and later on went and martyred nun Varvara. When approaching Kolchak's army, the day after the execution of the royal family all members of the imperial family, together with the people close to them were thrown alive on the bottom of the mine under Alapayevsk where died of wounds and hunger. White Guards were able to bring their remains in Beijing, where the body of Elizabeth and Barbara and came to the Holy Land. Their power and now you can see the inside of the Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene.
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There were almost no people, but slightly higher near the Roman Catholic Church of Dominus Flevit (Dominus Flevit Church) was not overcrowded. From here views of the Old City of Jerusalem and here is pulling most of the tourist groups.
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I personally only there Considered ancient crypts. There we saw a lot of small coffins. Their size is explained by the peculiarities of burial in ancient times.
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It turns out the dead body at the beginning of wrapped in cloth and lozhili in tombs carved into the cliffs. After one year remaining from the body bones piled in the above stone sarcophagi. Thus, apparently, save space.
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Not less crowded and was in the famous Garden of Gethsemane (Garden of Gethsemane), where there are millennial olive trees. Many believe that these trees have seen Jesus Christ himself. I recently wrote about the ossuary in Kutna Czech mountain, built in the cemetery brought with it from the Garden of Gethsemane ground. Apparently, saving the garden from the hands of his pilgrimage fenced dense hedge.
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To the surprise of the crowded garden we went to almost empty, filled with all the coolness of the Catholic Church Nations (All Nation Church).According to legend it was here is the rock on which Jesus Christ prayed on his last night before his execution, ischya support their belief in a higher power. Probably here and prayers ordinary Christians have a special power.
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Trying to escape from the noisy crowds we went down to the foot of the Mount of Olives, where he unexpectedly for himself found the entrance to the tomb of the Virgin (Tomb Virgin Mary).
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The underground cave temple once again we were almost alone. The only exceptions were a couple of Ethiopian pilgrims.
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For I still do not understand why in almost equal in terms of historical and religious significance of Jerusalem places we have seen such a strange concentration of visitors. Somewhere it was impossible to hustle, and somewhere we were almost alone with themselves. Do not blame those most travel guides and organizers of excursions, if agreed obedient sheep-driving tourists to the standard set of amenities.
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Whatever it was, a visit to the famous Temple of the Holy Sepulchre (Holy Sepulchre) we dragged down as they could, quite knowing what to pandemonium can get there. Even in the evening there was a sea of ​​people here.



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От этого, наверное, самого важного для всех христиан места у меня остались сумбурные и противоречивые впечатления. From this, probably the most important place for all Christians I still chaotic and contradictory impressions. И сам храм, и всё что с ним связано окутано легендами, преданиями и сверхестественными историями. And the temple itself, and all that it involves shrouded in legends, legends and supernatural stories. Даже находясь лично в храме, разобраться что к чему довольно сложно. Even being personally in the temple, understand what was happening quite difficult. Сказка и быль здесь смешались в странный тягучий коктейль, окутанный мистикой и противоречиями. Fairy tale and profit here mingled in a strange cocktail stringy, wrapped in mysticism and contradictions.
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Одно можно сказать с уверенностью – аура и энергетика здесь необычайно сильные, легко влияющие на впечатлительных людей. One can say with confidence - the aura and energy is unusually strong, easily affect susceptible individuals. Люди верующие и беззаветно жаждущие чуда и впрямь могут почувствовать здесь божественное присутствие. People of faith and selfless thirst miracle really can feel the divine presence here. Скептики же найдут множество нестыковок и странностей. Skeptics will find many inconsistencies and oddities.
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Всё здание храма поделено между разными христианскими конфессиями. All church building is divided between different Christian denominations. У каждой из них (а их целых шесть – армяне, католики, эфиопы, копты, сирийцы и греко-православные) есть свои пределы и часы молитв. Each of them (and there are as many as six - Armenians, Catholics, Ethiopians, Copts, Syrians and Greek Orthodox) have their limits and hours of prayer. И каждая из них относится к прочим с почти нескрываемой враждебностью. And each of them relates to the way with almost undisguised hostility.
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Символом раздора в храме можно считать небольшую лесенку, приставленную к окну на втором ярусе у центрального входа. Symbol of discord in the church can be considered a small ladder, leaning against the window on the second floor near the main entrance. Видимо по ней некогда монахи попадали во внутрь храма, избегая оплаты входа. Apparently on it once the monks got inside the temple, avoiding the payment entry. Рядом пристроен небольшой контрафорс, для ограничения доступа к этой странной детали внешнего интерьера. Near a small attached kontrafors, to restrict access to external parts of this strange interior.
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Лесенка своим существованием в данном месте подтверждает так называемый Статус-Кво. The staircase their existence in this place confirms the so-called status quo. Это некое соглашение между всеми религиозными конфессиями, поделившими храм, ничего не трогать, не менять, не ремонтировать здесь без согласия всех остальных. This kind of agreement between all religious faiths, share a temple not to touch anything, do not change, do not fix here without the consent of all the others.
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На входе я обратил внимание на массивные главные двери-ворота. At the entrance I noticed the massive main door-keeper. Именно ключи от них во избежании постоянных конфликтов уже сотни лет хранятся в одной арабо-мусульманской семье, а открывают и закрывают эти же двери уже совсем другая также мусульманская семья. That's the keys to them in order to avoid constant conflict for hundreds of years stored in one of the Arab-Muslim family, and open and close the same door is another Muslim family also.
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На входе находится первая главная святыня храма – Камень Помазания, покрытый красной, отполированной до блеска мраморной плитой. At the entrance of the main shrine is the first temple - the Stone of Unction, covered with red, polished to a high gloss marble slab. Как и кто определил на каком камне тело снятого с креста Христа находилось перед положением в гроб никто доподлинно не знает. How and who identified the body on which the stone removed from the cross of Christ was the situation in front of the coffin nobody knows for sure. Но миллионы верующих уже давно своими молитвами и прикосновениями сделали это место святым. But millions of believers for a long time with their prayers and touches made it a holy place.

abgsedapmalam

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Сразу же в нескольких метрах отсюда по узкой лестнице мы поднялись на Голгофу. Immediately a few meters away, the narrow stairs we went to Calvary. Теперь некогда вершина холма представляет собой очень мрачное тёмное помещение со множеством свечей и лампад. Now, once the top of the hill is a very gloomy dark room with lots of candles and oil lamps. Оно принадлежит греко-православному приделу. It belongs to the Greek Orthodox aisle.
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Чтобы опустившись на колени увидеть кусочек белой скалы, на которой возможно стоял крест распятого Христа, нужно отстоять немалую очередь. Kneeling down to see a piece of white rock on which to stand cross of Christ crucified, to be defended considerable turn.
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На самом деле, находясь здесь чувствуешь себя неуютно и скованно. In fact, being here feels uncomfortable and awkward. Совсем другие ощущения возникают при спуске в церковь Обретения Животворящего Креста. Quite different feelings arise during the descent to the Church of the Finding of the Holy Cross. Все стены уходящего глубоко под землю коридора исчерчены крестами. All the walls leaving deep underground corridor crosses striated.
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Многие из них принадлежат крестоносцам, завоевавшим Иерусалим девять столетий назад. Many of them belong to the Crusaders conquered Jerusalem nine centuries ago. Другие – паломникам самых разных времён из сотен уголков всего мира. Others - most pilgrims from hundreds of different times over the whole world. Этот спуск чем-то похож на машину времени. This descent is somewhat similar to a time machine. Перед тобой пробегают разные эпохи и истории тысяч судеб, к которым мы почти невольно соприкоснулись здесь. Before you run through different eras of history and the fate of thousands, which we almost involuntarily touched here.
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Главным же местом всего храма Гроба Господня можно считать Кувуклию – небольшую часовню, внутри которой и находиться Гроб Господень. The main destination of all the Holy Sepulchre can be considered Edicule - a small chapel, and being within which the Holy Sepulchre. Именно в этой гробнице, некогда высеченной в скале и от которой сохранилось лишь основание, и был похоронен, а затем воскрес Иисус Христос. It is in this tomb, once carved into the rock, and from which survived only basis, and was buried, and then resurrected Jesus Christ. Место это – главная святыня всего христианского мира. Place this - the main shrine of the Christian world.
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Попасть во внутрь не просто. Get inside is not easy. Очереди здесь огромные. Queues here are enormous. Кувуклия принадлежит греко-православной церкви и её всегда стерегут монахи. Edicule belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church and its always guarded by monks. Мы отстояли почти часовую очередь, пока попали во внутрь. We defended almost hour queue until got inside.
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Мои ощущения от пребывания в этом очень странном месте двоякие. My feeling of being in this very strange place twofold. По сути я даже не успел ничего увидеть и рассмотреть внутри. In fact I did not even have time to see anything and see inside. Признаюсь, меня охватило странное волнение, переходящее в дрожь. I admit, I was seized with a strange excitement, breaking into a shiver. Вместе с нами к Гробу Господню впустили несколько монахинь. With us to the Holy Sepulcher let some nuns. Я запомнил множество икон и лампад в первой части Кувуклии, так называемом приделе Ангелов и мощную мраморную плиту, которой и была накрыта сама гробница. I remember a lot of icons and lamps in the first part of the Edicule, the so-called chapel Angels and powerful marble slab, which was covered and the tomb.
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На выходе горит Благодатный огонь, появление которого многие православные считают ежегодным чудом, происходящим, как на заказ, в Великую субботу православной Пасхи. At the output of the Holy Fire is lit, the appearance of which many Orthodox consider the annual miracle taking place as to order, on Holy Saturday the Orthodox Easter. Естественно, в католическую Пасху такого чуда не случается, поэтому эта конфеcсия не признаёт вообще существования подобного божьего проявления. Naturally, the Catholic Easter such a miracle does not happen, so this konfecsiya not recognize at all the existence of such divine manifestations.
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Мне же кажется вполне понятным желание поддерживать эту легенду среди простых прихожан. It seems to me quite understandable desire to maintain the legend of the laity. Все мы внутренне очень хотим верить в чудо, как в детстве в того же Деда Мороза. All we really want to internally believe in miracles as a child in the same Santa Claus. Трудно описать наши ощущения после посещения храма Гроба Господня. Hard to describe our feelings after visiting the Holy Sepulchre. Мы вроде бы прикоснулись к чему-то очень важному и это тронуло наши сердца, но чего-то до конца не поняли. We seem to have touched something very important and it touched our hearts, but something is not fully understood. Поэтому тут же решили прийти сюда ещё раз следующим ранним утром. Therefore, immediately decided to come here again the next early morning.
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Людей в такое время здесь почти не бывает. People at a time are almost never happens. Зато мы неожиданно для себя попали сразу на две службы, шедшие у Кувуклии одновременно. But we were surprised himself immediately into two services, marching in Edicule simultaneously. В нескольких десятках метров друг от друга читали молитвы коптский и католический священники. A few dozen meters from each other and recited prayers Coptic Catholic priests. Они то и дело перекрикивали друг друга, да и вообще эти службы не вызвали у нас чувства умиления или религиозного порыва. They now and then shouting to each other, and indeed these services did not cause us a sense of emotion or religious impulse.
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Стоит ли говорить, что и утренняя прогулка по храму не смогла ответить на волнующие меня вопросы. Needless to say, that morning walk around the temple was not able to answer the questions of concern to me. Что же здесь поизошло две тысячи лет назад? What poizoshlo here two thousand years ago? Почему такое святое место стало причин стольких страданий? Why such a holy place was the cause so much suffering? Почему мы так все разобщены? Why do we all separated? Почему слепая вера ведёт к ожесточению сердец и душ? Why blind faith leads to bitterness hearts and souls? И что такое эта наша душа, зачем она нам дана и что со всеми нами будет дальше? And what is that our soul, why it is given to us and to all of us what will happen next? Да и вообще не является ли всё, что мы видели, грандиозной фальсификацией? And indeed whether all that we have seen, the grand falsification?
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Как бы в доказательство положительного ответа на последний вопрос мы посетили в Иерусалиме ещё одно необычное место – Садовую Могилу (Garden Tomb). As if to prove a positive answer to the last question, we visited Jerusalem in another unusual place - Garden Tomb (Garden Tomb).
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Это место находится вне стен Старого города неподалёку от Дамасских ворот у подножья небольшого холма. This place is outside the walls of the old town near the Damascus Gate at the foot of a small hill. Англиканская и протестантская церкви считают, что именно здесь находится истинная могила Иисуса Христа в небольшой высеченной в скале гробнице. Anglican and Protestant churches believe that here is the true tomb of Jesus Christ in a small cut in the rock tomb. Рядом с ней прихожане высадили небольшой сад со скамейками и выложенными мозаиками с цитатами из Библии. Beside her parishioners planted a small garden with benches and a mosaic of quotations from the Bible.
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Здесь, в отличии от храма Гроба Господня, я почувствовал себя удивительно спокойно. Here, unlike the Holy Sepulchre, I felt surprisingly calm. Кто знает, может именно такое состояние души должно вызывать в нас посещение святых мест. Who knows, maybe it is a state of mind should cause us to visit the holy places.
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Иерусалим настолько многогранен и разнообразен, что готов вместить в себя все религии и веры, все сказки и были, доброту и злобу, спокойствие и раздражение, веру и безверие, пороки и добродетели – все грани человеческого бытия. Jerusalem is so multifaceted and diverse that it is ready accommodate all religions and belief, all the stories were, kindness and anger, calm and irritation, faith and unbelief, vices and virtues - all facets of human existence. Именно поэтому я наврядли смогу забыть этот день проведённый здесь осенью 2013 года от Рождества Христова. That's why I navryadli able to forget this day spent here in the autumn of 2013 from the Nativity.
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