ORCHID

ahpek

hami pakai baja yg jenis mana?kasi la paste gambar baja tu kat sini .lg satu h2o tu racun yg mana satu?slalu guna racun malathon.tp x menjadi sgt.baru sembur ari ni besok kumbang kuning tu datang lg.mcm dah kalis je kumbang tu dgn malathon:@

nazurah

ahpek....H2O tu yang kita wat spray nyamuk tu la... adik badik ridscet egala tu...

ahpek

ooo yg tu.maknanya klau pakai ridsect boleh la?xde effect kat pokok ke?

ahpek

ni salah satu orkid yg tgh kembang kat umah ahpek.ada lg yg nk kembang

nazurah

ahpekkkkk....alamak silap faham ni...

jgn pakai ridsect plak.. maksud sy, H2O tu spray nyamuk yg mcm ala-ala ridsect.... H2O tu berasaskan air, jd ia x merosakkan pokok... selain dr H2O tu x sesuai...kang innalillah orkid u yang...

ahpek

ooo rasanya ridsect ada yg H2O klau x silap.yang tinnya kaler biru tu kan?nazurah pakai brand ape?

noor_hannah

Originally posted by ahpek at 24-3-2007 05:41 PM
ni salah satu orkid yg tgh kembang kat umah ahpek.ada lg yg nk kembang

ahpek.. awat kak noor tgk orkid tu mcm ada muka.. cute lah.. tak pernah pulak tgk species ni.. mana dpt ahpek?? berapa harga nya??

noor_hannah

Originally posted by nazurah at 24-3-2007 06:20 PM
ahpekkkkk....alamak silap faham ni...

jgn pakai ridsect plak.. maksud sy, H2O tu spray nyamuk yg mcm ala-ala ridsect.... H2O tu berasaskan air, jd ia x merosakkan pokok... selain dr H2O tu x s ...

zura.. tepek lah skit gambar nya..

noor_hannah

Originally posted by ahpek at 23-3-2007 10:56 PM
hami pakai baja yg jenis mana?kasi la paste gambar baja tu kat sini .lg satu h2o tu racun yg mana satu?slalu guna racun malathon.tp x menjadi sgt.baru sembur ari ni besok kumbang kuning tu data ...

yes..yes hami.. tepek skit gambar nya.. kak noor pun nak tgk gak.. orkid kat rumah ni dah lamaaaaaa tak berbunga.. semalam kak noor dah warning siap2 kat diorang.. tarak bunga kalu.. wa potong kasi buang!!

noor_hannah

Originally posted by ilahairi at 23-3-2007 10:46 PM
  orkid iLa tak mau berbunga2.... sedih sesangat .. org lain punya semuanye menjadi...
nak kat tak baja, dah baja, nak kata tak cukup air, hari2 siram, tangan tak sejuk ni...

serupa le ila... kalau nak kata tgn panas.. awat pokok2 lain menjadi..

ahpek

Originally posted by noor_hannah at 24-3-2007 08:57 PM


ahpek.. awat kak noor tgk orkid tu mcm ada muka.. cute lah.. tak pernah pulak tgk species ni.. mana dpt ahpek?? berapa harga nya??

kak noor ahpek pun baru perasan bunga dia ada nampak mcm ada muka la plk.rasanya ni spesis vanda biasa je.dah 3 thn lebih bela orkid ni.beli dulu kat pasar tani je,klau x silap harganya rm18 sekali ngan pasu.yg bestnya orkid ni x miss berbunga.sbb tu ahpek suka tanam jenis vanda ni

nazurah

sat lagi zura tepek pic kak noor...mls tul nk bukak grill ni...sumernyer den dah konci!

mok_nik

Originally posted by nazurah at 23-3-2007 08:19 AM
pangkal? means kat belah bawah la ekk... me spray d whole pokok as skali spray terpercik satu dunia...

a'ah lat bawah aje

heheh terperick seluruh dunia sekali nazurah spray ler ler mok nik tumpang orkid mok nik sekali
jimat mok nik tak yah beli baja spray

nazurah

yeklah moknik, kalo spray tu abis daun pun kena....dinding pun dpt baja gak...

nazurah

ahpekk...nilah H2O yg sy guna.. alamak...sory la...mls plak nk rotate...



[ Last edited by  nazurah at 25-3-2007 08:05 PM ]

nazurah

i found these useful info on net (www.orchidplants.com)...
very2 useful n informative...start with...



Cattleya

Even though their bloom can be very exotic and of spectacular size, cattleya and their hybrids are considered to be one of the easier orchids to grow.

Cattleyas require fairly high light intensity combined with consistent
air movement and good ventilation.  Mature plants should be allowed to dry slightly between watering. If you are in doubt about watering; less is better.

During the growing period we water twice a week, alternating water and fertilizer. You can purchase the expensive stuff in 25 pound sacks that the 'experts' try to pass on to
you, and - yes - we have done that. However, a good water soluble 20/20/20 fertilizer which is commonly available at most any garden center will do just as well. We pre-mix the fertilizer in a 5 gallon bucket and apply at half strength with a hose siphoner. Reduce watering and stop fertilizing to prevent weak growth during the colder months - but never let them dry out completely.

Most of our Cattleyas are in clay pots with plenty pebbles on the bottom for drainage. Slotted orchid pots are nice and pretty, but cost more than standard pots. In addition, they can become unsightly because roots will grow out of these slots and around the pot, also making it difficult when it comes time to repot. We use azalea pots and knock out most of the bottom for better drainage. Some of our larger specimens are in redwood baskets.

Potting medium consists of mostly medium grade tree fern mixed with about 25% shredded redwood and coarse sponge rock. Tree fern costs a little more than pine bark, but it makes for a cleaner, longer lasting mix with less tendency to break down and accumulation of molds or fungus. We purchase our potting mix ingredients in quantity, but you can find small 1/2 to 1 cubic ft sizes in most larger garden outlets.

The optimum time to repot is when the newest growth is over the pot edge and new roots are just beginning to emerge. Cut back all long roots that are growing over the the edge of the pot to a length of about 2 to 3 inches. Sever the lead growth from the plant, to include at least 3 healthy mature pseudobulbs. With a sharp knife, cut deep down into the potting mix and around the severed part in order to get a good portion of the roots in a kind of a 'plug'.

The remaining part of the plant (namely the back bulbs) can be left in the pot if the mix and the plant itself are in good condition. Check the first stem where the cut was made. If it has one or more plump and green nodes near the rhizome, it will send out new leads behind the cut and these will develop a new root system. Often times such back bulbs will produce new leads and flower sooner than the newly potted front portion.

It should go without saying that any time you are cutting on an orchid, either when repotting or just taking cut flowers, you should always use freshly sterilized utensils between plants to prevent the spread of virus. We use a small propane gas torch for this purpose.

Before repotting the new lead, clean up the plant by cutting off any remaining spent flower sheaths and remove all old and dry material on the bulbs. This is also a good time to check for scale insects and to take measures to get rid of them. If the leaves have spots of water or chemical residue on them, gently remove that by rinsing with water while rubbing with your thumb and forefinger, then let the cutting dry naturally.

When ready to continue, select a pot large enough to accommodate the plant plus room for about 2 years worth of new growth. Put a generous layer of pebbles in the bottom of the pot for drainage. You can use ordinary pebbles - about 1 to 2 inches in diameter or purchase 'river rock' at your home improvement center.

Next, add a layer of potting mix over the pebbles. Position the orchid plant with the cut end at the very edge of the pot and fill in all around and under the roots with more mix. Use your thumb or a tool to firmly press or tamp down the mix so that it compresses tightly around the roots and into the pot. Don't be overly gentle - you want a tight fit to the roots. To finish off, you will need one or more metal clips to stabilize and support the plant. You can also add a stake and tie the individual stems into an upright position. Last, but not least, don't forget the label with the name of the plant and the potting date. You will find this very useful the next time the plant is in need of repotting.

Now, unless you are dealing with a seedling, in which case you may want to provide lower light conditions for a few days, the newly potted orchid can go back to the regular growing area to be treated the same as the rest.

Don't forget to clean the used pot by scraping off roots that may still adhere inside and outside. We usually let roughly cleaned pots wait under the potting bench or outside somewhere until we have enough to fill a container. A 5-gallon bucket works great for a number of pots. Soak 24 hours in a solution of one gallon bleach to 4 gallons of water. We also clean and recycle the drainage rocks in the same manner. Used metal stakes and clips can go in the same bucket but should be taken out and rinsed in clear water after about an hour to prevent the onset of rust.



[ Last edited by  nazurah at 25-3-2007 11:44 PM ]

nazurah

It is almost a necessity to grow them in hanging baskets because of their long trailing roots. We keep less than a dozen because of this trait and put them out on the screened porch or hang them on oak tree branches in the summertime.

Vandas are very thirsty. Most of their root system is exposed and it does not hurt to water them every day during the summer. They are also heavy feeders and require lots of light. So, in short - vandas are not for everyone and certainly not suitable to growing in an apartment.

There are essentially two types of vandas. Flat leafed and cylindrical leafed. We have both varieties and treat them about the same here in Mid-Florida. Watering is cut back just a little during the cooler months - but we keep them growing practically year round. They are almost always in bloom.

We also have some hybrid ascocenda crosses which are much smaller and more manageable. These are kept in the green house all year in high light conditions where they bloom nearly continuously.

Vandas do not like their roots cut or disturbed. Ideally, repotting is done by either putting the whole plant, basket and all, into a larger basket or by cutting off the topmost portion of the plant with several roots remaining. Put the cut-off portion a bucket of water for a couple of hours and the roots will become pliable so you can stuff or wind them into their new container. Use large fir or redwood chips or chunks of bark as a potting medium.

If you have room, keep the old portion of the plant because sometimes vandas will propagate themselves by producing small plantlets at the base. These can be cut off in time when they have several roots and planted into their own basket.

nazurah

All phalaenopsis require subdued light conditions and brisk air circulation. We have installed a ceiling fan in the middle of the greenhouse which runs on the highest setting and is never turned off, summer or winter. Potting mix should be moist at all times but never soggy. Don't neglect watering and fertilizing in the winter. It might feel too cold to water, but actually your plants need the same amount (if not more) water because artificial heat will reduce humidity and suck moisture from the air and the potting medium.

Be careful when watering plants in cold weather. Ideally, water temperature should never be less than 60 F. Anything under that can cause tissue collapse in the leaves and newly emerging flower spikes. If affected portions are not dried or cut off, this can lead to further problems such as bacterial infections and rot which may take over the entire plant. Tissue collapse of the spike is very obvious. Try to cut down as far to the leaf as possible and dust the cut end with a powdered fungicide. Needless to say, it will not produce bloom and it is unlikely that the plant, being thus damaged, will put forth another spike that  same season.

During cold spells, when the temperature of our water supply is too low, we fill a 5 gallon bucket with hot water and use the hose siphon to water the plants. This is sufficient to bring the temperature up to acceptable levels.

We grow our phals in plastic pots with plenty of drainage materials on the bottom because they hold moisture longer than clay pots. You can purchase ready made mix specially made for phalaenopsis or you can mix your own. Equal amounts of fine-grade tree fern and charcoal plus some perlite or lava rock works well for us. We have recently experimented with mixtures containing mostly canadian peat. The plants did well with strong healthy root growth, but you need to watch that the peat does not dry out or become soggy. We have also tried fir bark, but find that it degrades rapidly and is host to snow mold and other fungus.

All but our largest specimens are repotted every year in fresh orchid mix right after the blooming period when new roots are beginning to show.

Tap the pot firmly on a hard surface and remove the plant. Throw away the old mix or put it on your compost pile. Clean off any remaining debris from the roots. Inspect and cut off all dead, soft or overly long roots right at the stem. Trim the stem to within a half inch of the lowest viable root. To ward off disease, we immerse the cleaned plants in a mixture of water including 1 teaspoon per gallon of fungicide such as Physan. Leave to soak about 20 minutes and let the plants air-dry. Now they are ready to be put into their new pots.

nazurah

It requires no special care and flourishes in the same environment as cattleyas, except that we reduce watering during the colder months. Repotting is the REAL bummer which requires heavy tools including an ax to divide the clump if necessary.

Not all dendrobiums are so prolific or grow to quite this size. There are several types or groups of dendrobium which require different handling and growing conditions. But for the most part, remember to cut down on watering after growth stops to encourage the setting of flower spikes for the coming blooming season. Resume normal watering when you see signs of new root growth - usually begins in March within our environment.

With the possible exception of dendrobium phalaenopsis which is often available at your local garden center, this genus in general is not as widely known and popular, but very well worth while if you appreciate a splendid display of bloom. You will need to hunt around to find a supplier for this and others of the more rare species of dendrobium and their hybrids.

hamizao

Originally posted by ahpek at 24-3-2007 05:41 PM
ni salah satu orkid yg tgh kembang kat umah ahpek.ada lg yg nk kembang

Kemungkinan besar ini jenis hybrid Vanda X Ascocentrum = Ascocenda ...Yip Sum Wah (?)  Warna di panggil 'Tilgates Orange ' Warna terang biasanya di warisi dari  Ascocentrum . Bunganya biasanya lebih kecil dari Vanda. Tapi ada beberapa jenis Ascocenda (Ascda ) yang seakan2 dia juga.

Ahpek taruk diluar ke 100 cahaya matahari?

[ Last edited by  hamizao at 25-3-2007 11:56 PM ]