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Reply emino
so now i dah baca apa yg korng sembg..so smlm i kasi dia mkn ayam rebus..dia mkn ...
bedah_dento Post at 8-7-2010 10:53
Ayam rebus leh kasi, tapi buah-buahan/sayur kene ade gak.
Nak bela sekor boleh, tapi kene luangkan extra time dengan dia. Kalo x dia ni lonely. Bila lonely dia stress. Glider leh mati sebab stress.
Tu pasal digalakkan dapatkan kawan. kalo xnk breed, belikan sekor lagi yg sama jantine pun takpe. diorang mmg suke berkawan. |
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Reply 494# emino
dia makan sayur gak ke??tp sayur apa erk yg dia makan??
nnti i bk belikn dia bertina la..beranak byk2 i suka..eheheh.. |
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-Kalo nak breed kan sugar glider ni senang x?.. |
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Reply 496# aviero_666
xtahu la..bedah pon baru aja bela sg nie..;) |
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Reply 494# emino
emino nk taya nie..kalw kita hembus kat dia kan..kalw dia bunyi kan..bahaya x??dia mara or dia memang bunyi mcm 2..my bro suka sngt hembus kat dia,so dia bunyi..so mcm mna?? |
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tu bunyi dia marah la. dia tak suke orang hembus, and hanya buat bende tu untuk tunjuk kat dia kita tak suka apa dia buat. contoh kalo dia gigit. tapi jangan selalu sangat. iotu buatkan susah nak bond dengan dia.
bab breeding lak, aku x galakkan breed sekadar suka2. sugar glider ni marsupial. marsupial punya breeding berbeza dengan mamalia yang lain. dia lahir janin kat luar, pastu janin merangkak naik ke pouch. and then janin akan melekat kat puting mak dia selama 2-4 minggu.
makanan time breed kene jaga sebab banyak khasiat mak dia kene ade. and mak dia kene selalu diperhati.
kalo ade kes rejected joey lak, lagi banyak panduan nak kene follow.
kene ingat satu bende: breeding memendekkan jangka hayat sugar glider. tu tak kira stress lagi, mating wound lagi. macam2 la..
sebab tu aku yang dah dekat 4 tahun bela ni pun tak pernah nak try breeding. Aku neuter semua male aku, and leave all the breeding to the dedicated home breeders. |
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Reply 499# emino
owhh..ni 1 lagi..bahaya x kalw ancaman lain pegi kat diowg..bahaya x??kucing i slalu pegi dekat sangkar diowg.. |
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emino kalaw sg umur 7bln kalw letak dia dgn sg umur 3bln kan??diowg boleh tingal skali x?? |
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Reply emino
owhh..ni 1 lagi..bahaya x kalw ancaman lain pegi kat diowg..bahaya x??kucing i s ...
bedah_dento Post at 9-7-2010 16:55
Yang tu sudah tentu ler... hahaha |
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eh xapa ke kalaw nk umur 3bln n 7 bln tingal skali?? |
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hyep...napa da snyap je hal SG ni...saya budak baru brlajar nk bela...ni so br cadang nk beli...ada kengkwan yg sudi nk mnjual male joey tk..huhuhu murah2 la.. saya duk area shah alam!!!! |
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Membela Sugar Glider ni satu hobby yang can be quite expensive from time to time. Kalau nak cari murah je, karang dapat yang unhealthy lak. Macam tu jugak item and makanan dia.
Kalau nak murah, aku cadangkan Fat-Tailed Gerbil. Comel pun comel, low maintenance lak tuh! |
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Glidervet Issue Terkini
Sugar Glider Cleaning and Hygiene
=========================
by Lisa
Last month, we reviewed Sugar Glider Grooming, Causes of Odors,
Popular Cleaning Methods and SunCoast's Weekly & Daily Cleaning
Processes. If you missed it, click here to review:
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glidervet-101.htm#clean1>;
This month, we thought it would be helpful to review several types of
items and the best methods we've found for cleaning - and preventing
- odors. Two of the most challenging types of items to keep clean
and odor-free are those which are either porous and / or contain
cracks and crevices. Wood toys and Nail-O-Matic Nail Trimmers
are examples of porous items, which absorb urine, food splatters
and other odor-causing bacteria strains. Wodent wheels and Glider
Cages are examples of items that have corners and crevices where
the aforementioned bacteria collect, attach and cause odors. Items
made of cloth, such as fleece pouches, can also become embedded
with odors, so be sure to launder weekly.
Whenever you have an item that is severely impregnated with odors,
it may take some serious elbow grease to decrease the odor-causing
bacteria. In some cases, it may not be possible to remove the
odor-causing bacteria because they have permanently attached
themselves to the item.
If you have a toy that is soiled and stinky, we recommend you
first remove as much of the surface dirt as possible by using
good ole soap, water and a scrub brush. Add a teaspoon of Dawn
dish detergent to a couple of gallons of warm water and immerse
the dirty item for about 20 minutes (the only exception to this
is the Nail-O-Matic, which we recommend soaking for only a couple
of minutes). Dawn is good at cutting grease and can help break up
some of the soiling. For sturdy toys, such as those made of wood,
we recommend using a scrub brush with stiff bristles.
For smaller and / or more delicate items, such as a Wodent Wheel or
Nail-O-Matic, use a soft toothbrush. Work the brush in a back and
forth motion, using slight-to-moderate pressure, which will help
to loosen as much dirt as possible. If the water turns black,
repeat the process until the water is clear. Then follow up by
rinsing well with water to remove all soapy residue.
If the item has been used for years and is heavily soiled, the water
may NEVER come back clean. In this case, we recommend you throw
it out, since it is laden with bacteria that could potentially be
a health hazard to you and your sugar gliders.
Once you are able to wash the item to the point at which the soapy
water is no longer black and dirty, let the item air dry until
it is 100% dry. To speed the process up, you can set it outside
and let it dry under the sun. After the item is completely dry,
you may notice an odor has returned, but hopefully, the smell will
have dissipated and not be quite as pungent as before. Again,
use your judgment here: if it's still really stinky after, it's
probably time to toss. Slight residual odors can be worked on in
stages over time; items that maintain odors indicate bacteria may
have permanently attached themselves.
You probably won't EVER want to clean like this again - it is very
frustrating to spend hours cleaning your sugar glider habitat and
toys weekly, only to have odors return almost immediately. But if
you stop here, the odor-causing bacteria will re-attach. Now is the
time to start breaking the barrier. Cage & Toy Wash, followed by
Cage & Toy Shield, will provide the cumulative barrier protection
to keep your sugar gliders' habitat and toys clean and odor free.
As indicated last month, SunCoast uses a weekly application of Cage &
Toy Wash to prevent odor-causing bacteria from attaching to items,
and a followup application of Cage & Toy Shield to leave a slick,
easy-to-wipe surface - future cleanings are very quick and easy.
Cage & Toy Wash
http://www.sugar-gliders.com/cage-cleaner.htm
Cage & Toy Shield
http://www.sugar-gliders.com/cage-shield.htm
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". When it comes
to making the cleaning process easier AND preventing odors, this
phrase comes to mind. To avoid the rigorous, timely cleaning process
that many sugar glider owners complain about, try implementing a
"preventative cleaning system" by pre-treating new items with Cage
and Toy Wash to prevent odor-causing bacteria from ever attaching
in the first place. Talk about a time saver!
Raising Glider Selling Standards Across the Industry
=============
by Lisa
Over the last several years, we have received an overwhelming number
of phone calls from consumers who have unknowingly purchased a sick
animal from unethical breeders / brokers / pet stores. Many people
have ended up having to foot huge veterinary bills within a few
days of acquiring their new sugar glider. To make matters worse,
a large percentage of these sick animals ended up dying within the
first few days or weeks of the purchase.
Breeders who do not provide a guarantee on the health and well-being
of the animals they sell, in our opinion, should not be allowed to
sell animals. Unfortunately, there are few, if any, laws in place
to protect consumers.
Some sellers make a big deal out of being USDA licensed. This
license does not require a guarantee and is almost as silly as
asking your cab driver if he has a driver's license (which by the
way doesn't exactly insure he / she is a good driver, right?) Nor
does it guarantee that that cab driver even has active insurance in
case of accident. You wouldn't let a contractor work on your home
without having a certificate of insurance, would you? We feel that
having a healthy animal guarantee in writing is just as important
as a USDA license.
SunCoast Sugar Gliders is working to raise standards across the
breeding industry and recently posted the idea of encouraging all
breeders to make their sugar glider guarantee publicly visible. By
advocating this level of integrity, fairness and consumer protection,
we hope to make an impact in decreasing the emotional and financial
burdens caused by the small percentage of sellers who, unfortunately,
cause a large percentage of distress. Further, if most breeders /
brokers / pet stores make their animal guarantees publicly visible,
the folks who don't will stick out like a sore thumb and perhaps even
cause people to ask, "What's your animal guarantee?" Here is ours:
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/sugar-glider-price.htm#guarantee>;
Please understand, we're not saying every breeder should have the
same guarantee, just that they have one and make it publicly visible.
The idea seems to have been well received by the sugar glider
community at large. Click here to read the thread on Glider Central:
http://bit.ly/aFHXNC
And as always, we'd love to know your thoughts, ideas and suggestions
on this particular subject. |
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Do Gliders Need Food Available Around the Clock? Part II
============================
by Lisa
If you missed Part 1, it's right here:
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glidervet-101.htm#dayfood1>;
So, let's say you agree that it's a good idea - especially for the
target groups of babies, breeders, elderly and / or sick - to have
food available in the cage during the day. You can't really leave
BML, HPW, or many of the other diets in the cage all day because they
may spoil. That means using a high quality pelleted food designed
for sugar gliders, like Wholesome Balance Chicken & Brown Rice Blend:
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/wholesome-balance.htm>;
"What, a pellet food, you say? I thought pellet foods were an awful,
horrible thing to feed to sugar gliders - everybody says so."
Everybody who? Vets? Animal nutritionists? Like anything
else, there are poor quality pellet foods and high quality pellet
foods. Many people have had bad experiences using pellet foods with
a corn and / or soy base, but that does not mean all pellet foods
are bad. In fact, we have never talked with a vet or nutritionist
with extensive exotic experience who did not think feeding high
quality pellet foods daily as the main ingredient of a varied,
balanced diet - like the SunCoast Diet -
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glidervet-45.htm#menu>;
was the best way to approach exotic animal nutrition.
For example, here is an email sent by such a vet to us, completely
unsolicited. As a very experienced exotic animal specialist,
he provided some comments on the general state of glider diets:
"Besides general nutritional concerns, the biggest problem we see
with handmade diets is that virtually none have had a guaranteed
analysis of the end product performed to guarantee that no
deficiencies (or excesses!) are present. Mineral excesses don't hit
you over the head; the animal grows fast, has strong bones, and looks
great - then dies younger than it should. No one usually suspects
the diet supplements in such cases, because, hey, it lived for 2
years on the stuff! Only thorough necropsy and pathology testing
reveals the cause of death in those cases; most owners never know
what hit their pet because they won't spend the money to find out."
"Exotic pet enthusiasts seem to desperately want to feed 'exotic
diets' to their pets, as if this makes them more special. The simple
truth, be it not very glamorous or sexy, is that a simple pelleted
diet with a guaranteed analysis, is far safer than most of the
currently recommended home made mixes. There are now good glider
diets on the market, which when combined with some fruit / veggie
intake, make for a very balanced diet...and in treating exotic
pets for 24 years now, I've not seen ONE case of rickets or other
deficiencies, NOR excesses / overdoses, on this type of diet. I
cannot say the same for ANY homemade diet formula out there."
"I doubt that this will become the standard recommendation any
time soon, as again it seems exotic pet people WANT to feed home
made diets; they seem to feel that a mundane pelleted food isn't
'exotic' enough to meet their pets needs! Not very scientific,
to be sure, but it's the main mindset of the exotic pet owners /
breeders I deal with every day. It also is the main reason we see
obese gliders, gliders with rickets, and gliders with organ failures
due to excess calcium or D3 in their diets."
"Oh, you probably wonder who I am! I run an exotic animal practice,
and also teach exotic animal medicine classes for both veterinary
students and veterinary technician students at 2 colleges in my
area. I've been a guest lecturer at both national and international
veterinary conferences, and have written multiple medicine articles
in veterinary journals, as well as chapters in medical textbooks (I'm
working on a sugar glider chapter for a textbook now, which is why
I happened to be browsing through the internet glider sites lol)."
Sounds like a guy who knows what he is talking about. Sounds
like all the vets and animal nutritionists we have talked with,
including the folks responsible for exotic animal nutrition at zoos
and sanctuaries.
What they want is a food of *known nutritional quality*
Read: not just vitamin / mineral balance, but the right proteins,
carbohydrates, fats, and important trace nutrients
that *consistently* delivers the right balance in every single bite.
Read: does not allow selective feeding, which gliders are known for.
For example, many people feed "what my glider likes", which is a
sure bet the glider is not consuming a properly balanced diet. Just
because your glider prefers corn to a pellet does not mean it's a
good idea to feed a lot of corn, which has a very poor nutritional
profile for gliders. And any pellet based on corn is probably a
bad idea to feed as well.
Folks, it's not about whether the food is pelleted or not, it's
about whether the food consumed has the right balance. A high
quality pellet food gives you both known nutritional quality and
consistent nutritional delivery.
Some docs believe that ONLY a pellet food should be fed. Here at
SunCoast, we prefer the concept of enrichment, which includes
providing not only a well-balanced pellet food, but also a variety
of fruits, veggies and proteins.
But the majority of the food offered delivers exactly what the
animal needs to not just survive, but thrive, in every single bite.
Seriously, one "complaint" I often hear is that someone's gliders
don't like ANY pellet. This is often a case of overfeeding fresh
foods "they like". You can try pellets for only a few nights without
doing any damage; also you might read the two-part article in our
past newsletters about dealing with picky eaters here:
Part 1
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glidervet-29.htm#picky>;
Part 2
<http://www.sugar-gliders.com/glidervet-30.htm#picky2>;
Before we sign off this month, I would like to ask for your feedback
on this topic. What we are looking for in particular is ANYONE who
has first hand knowledge of a veterinarian or animal nutritionist
with zoo or exotic experience who believes that a diet *without*
a good high quality pellet food is the best approach. Many message
board members swear up and down that this is absolute truth. Please
contact me with a name and phone number of those doctors who
believe this. I will try my best to contact them for an interview
in a future newsletter.
It is never our intention to be close minded on any topic, but
we've never found such a doctor and we've worked with many vets
and animal nutritionists with PhD's. I would like to believe that
a lot of information being perpetuated on the boards is based on
some level of science and expert knowledge, so please, if you know
a qualified vet who believes all pelleted foods are bad for sugar
gliders, please contact me here:
[email protected]
We promise to listen to the position and report back to you in the
newsletter on what we hear.
As always, I am grateful to all community member contributions. The
more information we are all willing to share, the better life will
be for captive sugar gliders everywhere.
'Til next time, in good health for you and your gliders, we sign
off in appreciation of all of you who share great glider adventures
with all in the community!
---->=< ---->=< ---->=< ---->=<
GliderVet Newsletter Your resource for safety first, expert advice
on our sugar glider friends!
---->=< ---->=< ---->=< ---->=< |
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hehehe.. emino u tk jual ke joey? |
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Tak. I dont believe in breeding unless you are very dedicated to do so.
Bela jaa... |
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erm... one thing agi..i nk tahu.. cara dia PENCERNAAN mereka bagaimana adakah seperti kucing or what? erm kalau i letak di luar rumah bahaya tak? |
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Lebih cam hamster dari kucing. Taik dia kecik and ala2 ubat gigi, and keras bila kering.\
Letak luar rumah bahaya ler. Kucing, biawak, burung, cuaca... |
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umah ada 5 eko kucing ah..heheeh but tu suma nohal kowt..erm kalo kastret Sg ok tak? erm mcm tk active je thread ni.. ada forum yg memang peminat SG yg active tk.. best skit nk brbincang |
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