Orchids : Paphiopedilum

S_Anuar

Paphiopedilum atau lebih senang dikenali sebagai Ladies Slipper Orchid.
Bagi penggemar jenis ini, orkid ini merupakan dikalangan orkid yg sukar
dan memerlukan tumpuan yg lebih (boleh dikatakan MANJA).

Bentuknya juga boleh dikatakan seakan-akan dengan bentuk mangkok yg ada
pada pokok periok kera, tetapi sebenarnya ianya seakan-akan bentuk selipar/sepatu
Berikut dilampirkan beberapa koleksi orkid

Paphio rothschildianum (Satu kepuasan bila berjaya berbunga)


Paphio rothschildianum


Lain-lain versi (Gambar dari Agro Bazaar, Taman Warisan Pertanian, Putrajaya)

afja

agro bazaar nih sampai bila ekk?
lupa pulak...
x pasan pun yg orkid yg nih...

S_Anuar

Originally posted by afja at 31-1-2008 12:47 PM
agro bazaar nih sampai bila ekk?
lupa pulak...
x pasan pun yg orkid yg nih...

Dari 25hb Jan - 3hb Feb 2008.

Mas916

orkid manja? yg tak manja pun mals berbunga, apatah lg yg manja..

S_Anuar

Originally posted by Mas916 at 31-1-2008 03:28 PM
orkid manja? yg tak manja pun mals berbunga, apatah lg yg manja..

susah nak jaga, tak nak lebih, bajapun tak leh lebih, cahaya nak redup 100%, malam nak sejuk mcm dlm peti ais. baru berbunga

cikna99

Rasanya thread orkid ada dah.. bukak byk2 thread jenis orkid nih, mod ok tak ekkk..jgn mare ekkk..

cincau

mendappp

cincau

sape ada orkid jenis nie ..... cantik kan .... x penah jumpe lagik kat neseri.... daun cam daun lily @ pandan.... nmpaknya medium tanaman dia tanah ek.... cam spatho gak tanam kai tanah

cincau

bunga lak cam ala-ala periuk kera

cincau

orkid periuk kera @ monkey pot ke nie

cincau

mahal x jenis nie

cincau

cakap sensorang

cincau

kemendapann

cincau

PAPHIOPEDILUM (the Slipper Orchid)

More than 60 species of Paphiopedilum (pronounced paf-ee-oh-ped-i-lum) are found in nature from the high hills of northern India to the lowlands of the Philippines and New Guinea.

They are magnificent orchids and both the species and the hybrids have always formed a major part of good collections.

They have a fascinating array of colours and forms and their ease of culture has attracted lifelong admirers.

All Paphiopedilum are characterised by both a cup-like lip called the pouch, which gives them the common name of lady slipper, and a prominent dorsal sepal.

The plants are mostly terrestrials, although some, like Paphiopedilum lowii may be found growing epiphytically, (on trees) or lithophytically, (on rocks) They are dwarf to moderate sized with leaves that are stiff, waxy or leathery and range from a glossy green to beautifully mottled. The leaves usually form a fan-shaped tuft.

An erect stem, bearing one or more flowers, arises from the centre of each new growth.

Some species e.g. P stonei and P rothschildianurn, may produce up to six flowers on eachstem. The flowers are from 2" to 5W' across in a variety and mixture of colours and may last perfectly on the plant for six weeks or more.

The major blooming season is from mid-autumn onwards although variations occur.

Paphiopedilum are divided into two cultural groups: the warm-growing, mottled-leaved types like the famous Paphiopedilum Maudiae (ideal for beginners), and the cool growing, plain-green leaved types. All types require reasonably cool nights, particularly in the spring when they will be setting their buds for the autumn flowering season. Although this need makes them difficult to manage in warm areas, their low light requirement makes it possible to keep them cool by shading. Hence, both mottled and green-leaved Paphiopedilum may be grown side-by-side but perhaps not to the same perfection as if their requirements were tailor-made.

Temperature and Humidity

Green-leaved types ideally require a minimum night temperature of approx. 55°F while the mottled- leaved types do better with a night temperature of 60-65T. Day temperatures should range between 70-80°F although short periods of higher temperatures will not injure the plant. The humidity should be moderate, between 50-60% during the day. Light Paphiopedilum enjoy medium light intensity, about 800-1000 foot candles throughout the year for optimal growth. Avoid direct sun, except in the early morning. In the house, move plants back from the window at the height of the midday sun or, ideally, grow them behind a shade curtain. Air Movement Moist air and vigorous air movement at a favourable temperature, is highly recommended to keep the leaves cool and to dry drops of water on the plants thereby reducing the chance of spreading disease. Hot or cold draughts cause bud-blast (the buds turn brown and die).

Watering

Paphiopedilums do not have pseudobulbs and so, like Phalaenopsis, they must have a regular and constant water supply. This entails keeping the growing compost moist but not wet, a technique that beginners will have to practice to get perfect. Water the plants early in the day so that the foliage will be dry before the temperatures drop at nightfall. Plants typically need to be watered every five to seven days but weather conditions may modify this need. The potting medium, the surrounding humidity and the weather all affect the rate at which plants dry and thus need water. For those growers using bark as a potting medium, it is essential not to let the plant dry out completely because bark becomes very difficult to re-wet. Water will channel through the dry medium without wetting the plant or the compost. If this happens submerge the whole pot in a pan of water until moistness and wettability have been restored.

Fertilising

Plants growing in bark need a high nitrogen fertiliser (30-10-20 or 30-10-10 ratio) at half the strength recommended on the pack. Fertilise greenhouse-grown plants three times in succession and the fourth time, flush through with pure water to leach out any mineral salts that have accumulated. For home or windowsill growing, alternate the fertiliser with a pure water flush. Plants grown in some of the more complicated mixes with leaf mould and peat should receive fertiliser at more reduced strength because the mix itself provides nutrition and extra nitrogen may cause souring of the compost.

Potting

Because most Paphiopedilums are terrestrial a medium that drains well but retains moisture is needed. Four parts fir bark to one part Perlite is excellent. Finely chopped fir bark (l/8th to 1/4 inch) is preferable to the medium or large chunks used for Cattleya and Cymbidium. Moisten the bark mix thoroughly before potting any type of orchid in it. Paphiopedilum can easily grow into specimen plants because, with good culture, they will produce growths freely and regularly. They are capable of producing flowers on rootless growths and in such cases particular care must be taken to ensure that large plants have good, supporting root systems. Repot Paphiopedilum before the growing medium decomposes and before the plant has outgrown its pot, or when it needs dividing (i.e. about once each year). The repotting procedures entails first, clipping off dead roots, then positioning the plant in the new container and finally filling in around the roots with the compost medium until it reaches slightly over the base of the plant. Do not bury the new plant growths as this will cause rotting. The base of each growth should be in contact with the growing medium to encourage new roots to form. Restrain watering to a minimum until evidence of new growth is apparent but do not neglect the humidity or the plants will dehydrate. Recently repotted Paphiopedilum should be placed in a shady area and moved gradually into the correct light conditions once new growth begins.

cincau

Paphiopedilum Culture

General: Paphiopedilums, the lady slipper orchids, are easy to grow and very rewarding if a few simple principles of culture are followed. First, and most important, the potting medium should not be allowed to become stale. Paphiopedilums like to be put in fresh potting medium at least once a year, and every six months is preferable. The key to growing paphiopedilums is to keep a good root system, as the plants have no bulbs or stems in which to store moisture or nutrients. Potting in a proper medium is necessary to maintain healthy roots. Our plants are potted in a mixture of fine California fir bark, peat moss, and perlite.

Moisture & Fertilizer: We recommend that paphiopedilums be watered twice weekly in the home, and that a small amount of water soluble fertilizer such as Growmore 20-10-20 or Dyna Gro 7-9-5 be added to the water once each month according to package instructions or may be mixed weaker than indicated on the package and used every second or third watering. Occasionally flush fertilizer from the pot by drenching with water. Too much fertilizer will damage the plants, so the best practice is to fertilize lightly.

After the plants are watered, they should be placed so that the pots do not stand in water. Some people like to place the pots in a tray or saucer of gravel. This helps to insure that the base of the pot is not immersed in water and provides some air circulation under the pot.

Lighting & Temperature: Place the plants in or near a sunny window. When grown as houseplants, paphiopedilums need good light to do their best. Paphiopedilums and phalaenopsis do not need as much light as cattleyas, cymbidiums or vandas, but they do need at least the light required to bloom African Violets. They will be comfortable at any temperature that is comfortable for humans (55-80 degrees). Avoid cold or warm drafts - such as near an open window or heat vent.

Misting: Misting the plants, while not necessary, may be beneficial in the morning on warm days. Do not get water in the pouches, as that will cause the flowers to deteriorate. Flowers should last in good condition on the plants for two to three months.

Repotting: When repotting, do not divide the plants into small pieces. The larger clumps will produce more new growths and more flowers. Place plants in the smallest pot that will accommodate the root system.

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Paphiopedilum Orchids

Paphiopedilum and also Phragmipedium hybrids will grow quite well as indoor plants. The single most important point to keep in mind is that they are shade loving plants which feel comfortable in an environment where African Violets or fine Maidenhair Ferns do well. They should be pulled back from direct sunlight, except in the morning and late afternoon or in the middle of winter. Draught or air movement should be kept to a minimum as it will only blow away any humidity from around the plants.

The kitchen is usually the best place, where some extra humidity is produced. A very light bathroom may be even better. They can be stood on the windowsill where it faces south. To create extra humidity immediately around a plant, it can be placed on top of a gravel bed in a large dish or saucer. The water must be kept at a level just below the tips of the gravel so that the bottom of the pot has no direct contact with the water. Phragmipediums grow very well if stood in another, smaller saucer, only slightly wider than the pot diameter and placed on top of the gravel. It can be left full of water most of the time with the plant sitting in it. Paphiopedilums however, are likely to get root rot if left standing in water for more than a day.

For seedlings or very delicate plants requiring higher humidity, a plastic dome cover or tent can be put over the whole lot. The cover is best removed or opened during the night, when the ambient humidity is usually adequate. While the room is being heated or during dry weather, the cover should be left in place or kept closed. Ventilation for one hour a day is enough. Going one step further and with a bit more expense, a miniature tropical environment can be created in a fish bowl, fish tank or any size aquarium. Again the plants should be standing above about five cm of water, either on coarse gravel or a rack. If an aquarium heater is used to keep the temperature around 18 degrees Celsius, even the most delicate seedlings and species should succeed.


Going on to greenhouse culture, most slippers can be grown without artificial heating in a well built greenhouse during frost free nights. I really feel that a nine month active growing period is sufficient for all plants but the smallest seedlings, without worrying about growth during the three colder months, when besides the temperature the photo period (day lengths) is another limiting factor. Minimum night temperatures as low as 5 degrees Celsius are not damaging to plants provided the day temperatures are reasonably high. In a temperate climate it does not cost a lot to run a fan heater during those few really cold nights below 5 degrees Celsius. Day temperatures of 25 degrees Celsius in a greenhouse even in the middle of winter can be achieved on a sunny day if most of the shade has been removed. That is also the time to open the ventilators or the door for a fresh air exchange.

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Paph Miyahi Tamahazum


If you have a larger greenhouse and want to keep a higher minimum temperature, electric fan heaters are too expensive to use. I am amazed that it is still not better understood or known that compression heating on average produces about two and one half times more heat from the same amount of electricity as resistance heating. In practical terms, a fan or bar heater costs two and one half times more than a good reverse cycle air conditioner to produce the same amount of heat. I have used them for years. They are as reliable as and maintenance free as a fridge (which works on the same principle). However, a reverse cycle air conditioner is not suitable for cooling a greenhouse in summer (produces dry air, too expensive) or for heating in an area where it gets much below freezing for longer periods.


A hotbed which is an electric heating cable buried in a few centimetres of sand on a bench in a greenhouse is quite suitable and economical for a small collection. Again a plastic cover can be made to go over a frame, making a mini-greenhouse within a greenhouse. If only a few plants require extra warmth they can be stood on an electric heatboard (very low running cost, about as much as a light bulb for a small size) or a propagation tray.

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CHOOSING THE PLANTS:


For beginners it is important to choose plants which are known to grow vigorously rather than produce the most desirable flowers. Above all they should have a healthy root system. But how can you see inside the pots? When buying plants picking up the plant at the base only and if the pot falls off, put it back. If buying by mail order, only accept bare root plants so that you can see the condition of the roots. Plants sent by whatever means usually get loosened or dislodged in pots anyway. It is much better not having to pay freight for the heavy mix and pot and put them into your own uniform mix, the way they should be potted. Buyers beware of nurseries offering seedlings in certain pot size! I have seen small seedlings being planted into 50mm pots straight from flasks. On the other hand I have also flowered many seedlings in the same size small pots. A rational description of seedling size is the leaf span from the tip of one leaf to the tip of the opposite leaf which in a 50mm tube could be anything between 40mm (from flasks) to 200mm (near flowering size).


A few years ago there was an increasing demand for slippers from cymbidium growers who were looking for a bit of variation in their collections. They only had a shade house and in some cases a flowering house to accommodate them. I thought to myself “what’s the point in producing all these magnificent Paphiopedilum if only a select few people can grow them”. As there were very few breeds to choose from I set out to make several crosses using the following species as parents with novelty and standard hybrids; the vigorously growing Paphiopedilum insigne including the alba forms; the beautifully mottled leafed Paphiopedilum venustum; the glossy Paphiopedilum villosum md. the var boxallii; the wine red Paphiopedilum charlesworthii; the elegant Paphiopedilum fairrieanum; the purple Paphiopedilum hirsutissimum; the pretty Paphiopedilum spicerianum. These all come from the cool foothills of India and Burma. These days many so called experts would probably snuff with disrespect at seeing Paphiopedilum insigne listed in a crossing but I believe it is beautiful as well as unique in more than one way. It is by far the fastest growing Slipper, normally producing two new leads from the old flowering growth and it does very well at temperatures down to just short of freezing. The same low temperature tolerance goes for the others mentioned too, especially Paphiopedilum venustum. Most of the resulting seedlings which were bought by growers (mostly) in cooler climates, have flowered. On a recent trip to Tasmania I was shown some hobbyists growing and flowering them very well, even in shade houses, where only the night frost was kept out but temperatures remained low all day. Yet for other people they grew very poorly. You may find it hard to believe that the reason for it was the same as I found in Queensland earlier. TOO MUCH LIGHT! In Tasmania, growers with only a few plants put them with their cymbidiums and in Queensland the people who said they could not grow Slippers had them sitting among Dendrobiums and Cattleyas. Growing them under the leaves of large cymbidiums can be successful. An easy test for the correct light intensity is moving a hand over the panels about 50cm above the foliage. If, during the warmer seasons, more than the slightest shadow is cast, there is too much light.

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Paph Fanaticum


With a lower light level also comes a lower temperature and higher humidity. A win-win situation in the hot weather provided any drying winds are kept out. Paphiopedilums grown under adequate shade will display that lush growth, so pleasing to the eyes. They will also grow much faster and produce longer flower stems, even in winter, after most of the shading has been removed. Less shading and more light can be provided between the end of May and beginning of September.


WATERING AND FEEDING:


Slippers do not have pseudobulbs like many other orchids for water storage. They should, therefore, be kept moist at all times but less so during winter, when it is better to keep them on the dry side. I always use a hose with a rose and apply rainwater (with fertiliser) over the top of the plants, losing very few buds due to “damping off’. Rotting of buds is, I believe, caused by high evening and night humidity. A long spouted watering can is easier to use in a small collection. Too much importance is given to feeding as compared to other more important conditions such as light and humidity. Of course, if they are growing in a bark mix, a regular nitrogen supply is important. Often and little, quarter strength is the golden (green) rule. The brand is not really important but the newer seaweed or other organic (animal or plant derived) fertilisers, alternating once a month with a high nitrogen mineral (salt) fertilizer should bring good results. No feeding is needed during June and July. Do not apply any sort of fertiliser in a dry form!

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PESTS:


The few pests living off Slippers are mealy bug, sometimes aphids in spring and if there are no screens over the openings, caterpillars. Three sprays one week apart, with Rogor is very effective against mealy bugs and aphids. Dipel will give caterpillars the runs. Of course always be on the lookout for snails and slugs. Always choose a cool day for spraying to avoid leaf burn damage. The hard leaved species or primary hybrids (a crossing of two different species) such as the multi-flowering Paphiopedilums parishii philippinense haynaldianum, rothschildianum, St. Swithin, Glaucophyllum, Julius, etc. require a slightly stronger light intensity. They can be put into a less shaded corner or end of greenhouse or hung up near the roof. They are also reasonably cold tolerant, therefore cold coming in from the roof or the sides will not hurt them. In fact it may help to induce flower buds. When starting to grow Paphiopedilums, it is most important to begin with hybrids but never species (Paphiopedilum insigne may be the exception). Many hobbyists say they want to grow the species in order to preserve them. In reality they are doing exactly the opposite. They are helping to destroy them. Species are much more difficult to grow and countless numbers have died in the hands of inexperienced fanciers. Each species is genetically programmed to grow under the very specific conditions in which it evolved. While some species have a considerable amount of tolerance to survive under modified conditions, many will require more closely simulated
treatment in cultivation.


Paph Rosies Gold


Both Paphiopedilum armeniacum and Paphiopedilum primulinum are considered to be difficult or at least slow growers. Yet, the crossing between the two which is named Gold Dollar, grows very well and flowers very freely and is just as beautiful with its brilliant pure yellow colour. Paphiopedilum javanicum and Paphiopedilum glaucophyllum used to be very common. Where are they now? Have the species collectors saved them? I believe we must be very successful in growing hybrids first before allowing yourself to indulge in attempting nature’s most precious jewels, the species. When buying orchids think of yourself as the person you are buying the orchids for. Don’t be told by judges (who often can’t see the beauty anymore) or anybody else as to what is a nice flower or what you should like. Preserve your own personal taste and integrity. There is no poor taste when it comes to Paphiopedilums. A collection of all awarded plants would not necessarily be the most interesting but quite likely the most expensive.


DISEASES:


Root rot caused by either Pythium or Phytophtera but also Rhizoctonia and rarely by other fungi can be a problem. Most diseases attack during the mild and often humid “in between” seasons, lying dormant during winter and summer. Any plant which looks sick or is loose in the pot with a poor root system should be repotted immediately, no matter what time of the year. All dirt and dead root parts should be removed, carefully rinsed under the tap and bathed in a Fongarid solution for two hours.