Orchids : Paphiopedilum

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Paph Deligoldi


Newly acquired plants should be given the same treatment unless they are growing very well in pots. The same solution can also be used to thoroughly spray the plants when conditions for disease attacks are favourable. Placing a plastic bag over a sick plant will reduce further dehydration as this greatly speeds up the recovery. Frequent checks are
necessary in case the disease should recur under those very favourable conditions. Bacterial rot (Envinia) can be a real problem at times. It attacks the leaves or more often the base of young or mature growths, going straight for the centre. These fast developing, watery blotches can kill a plant in a few days. After cutting away all the affected parts, a paste of neat fungicide can be painted over the cuts and surrounding areas, keeping a close watch for any recurrence. During cold and wet weather the common furry grey mould (Botryis) often starts growing on dead flower stems and wet flowers. A small fan or ceiling sweep fan near the roof, blowing air gently over the plants is usually enough to keep this fungus away. Opening the growing house for fresh air also helps. I only run air circulating fans during the night and cool humid weather when the greenhouses are closed. During warm weather fans will only dehydrate the plants. Well-grown plants resist most pests and diseases except for mealy bug and the occasional bacterial rot on some susceptible species. Hygiene should always be in a grower’s mind whenever plants or anything else associated with plants are handled. Do not use the garden shovel to turn over your potting mix. Never let the mix or pots get into contact with soil. Avoid water splashing from the floor onto plants. Only handle plants, pots, tools and mixes with clean hands.


MIX AND POTTING


Very few growers are preparing their own bark these days, I certainly don’t. Graded, and it must be composted bark, is readily available in most places. For small seedlings I use a 4- 6mm size and for larger plants 10mm. This can be used straight from the bag, making sure it is moist but never wet. Some successful growers add one or more of the following: a small amount of dolomite lime, up to 1/3 of fine polystyrene granules, a bit of sphagnum moss, charcoal, fine gravel. No fertiliser is added to the mix. Being mostly terrestrial orchids, Slippers prefer a closer mix than Cattleyas or Phalaenopsis, which is able to hold moisture for a reasonable period. This may not apply in tropical and subtropical areas where plants are grown in a shadehouse and get a lot of summer rain. A more open quick draining mix may be preferable there. Adult plants should be repotted at least every two years and seedlings yearly. Always remove all the old mix and dead old roots. If there are signs of root rot and no yellow growing tips, they should be rinsed and dipped in Fongarid. Use the smallest possible pot which can comfortably accommodate the roots. This is most important. When in doubt use the smaller size. More plants are killed by over potting than any other cause. The mix should be “vibrated”
in between the roots by tapping the pot all around the outside and finally pressed down when full. The first root should be about 1 cm below the surface.


IN SUMMARY:


Choose hybrids and once mastered then try species; Grow under heavy shade; Use small pots. Try growing slippers - they are a gentle and very rewarding challenge.

cikna99

tengah mekar di lamanku...

cincau

22# cikna99

cikna, tanam kai tanah ke ? sama cam spatho ek

adnil

salam... adnil ada beli 4 anak pokok orkid nih ms gie kk ari tu, now lekat kat kayu buruk gantung.. gantung kt pagar luar umah, mmg bawah shades, tapi still kena matahari gak la.. tgk ada daun daun dia kering coklat lak.. risau gak takut mati lak... susah susah seludup ari tu
tgk daun orkid cikna tu sama cam adnil nyer tu.. so nak minta jasa baik nasihat cikna cam ne nak kasi subur dan berbunga cam cikna nye tu...
ni pokok nyer :-

enfagrow

tak nak lebih, bajapun tak leh lebih, cahaya nak redup 100%, malam nak sejuk mcm dlm peti ais. baru berbunga<---- tuan saiful thread sblom ni

cmf_harris

adnil,

paphio no tak sesuai gantung kat kayu sbb medium nanti terlalu cepat kering, dan nampak mcm agak panas la kat pagar adnil tu. seeloknya paphio ni dlm pasu, medium campuran arang, moss dan sesetengah paphio nakkan campuran batu kapur baru dia berbunga. kalau pakai campuran medium di atas ni, dia simpan moisture tapi tak terlalu lembap dan air tak bertakung lama.

saya pernah tengok ada orang yg guna medium campuran perlite dan moss utk paphio, 60% perlite dan 40% moss kerana sebab di atas tu la.

cincau

Reply 26# cmf_harris

kalo kai medium tanah leh ke....  cane ghoper perlite tu ek

cincau

kt mana nk beli paphio ni ek

cmf_harris

tanah rasanya tak boleh sbb kalau jenis tanah merah tu dia melekat kat akar dan clogged pores, tu yg akar mati. perlite tu mcm pasir kaler putih tapi dia boleh serap air. selalunya medium yg nampak mcm tanah tu fern yg dah pecah2...

cincau

Reply 29# cmf_harris

kt neseri ada jual ke perlite n fern tu

cmf_harris

perlite tu kena tanya, tak semua nurseri jual. fern slab pulak susah nak jumpa sbb skrg ni fern tu dilindungi dan boleh kena saman kalau ada. tapi kalau kat tepi2 jalan on the way pi cameron tu, baru2 ni yg saya pegi ramai org asli jual...

adnil

mmg definitely kena tukar - sian dia kering tgkkan..
moss tu ada jual ke?  kat area umah adnil nih ada gak lah pokok sawit adalah pakis idup situ.. fern slab tu yg tu ke? jgn marah kl salah mmg tak tau nih..
batu kapur lak kat ner nak cari eh?

seroja1

Reply 32# adnil


kat pasaraya yang ada jual pokok kengkadang ada jual moss ni... pernah baca kat mana ntah.. kalo takder batu kapur.. boleh juga diguna pecahan tiles... sbb tiles tu pun dari batu kapur gak... kalo salah.. Ya Ampunnnn... ambe pun baru dok blaja lagi...

adnil

nak tanya .. perlite tu cam tanah itam gambut campur dgn cam sabut kelapa tu ke??

seroja1

perlite tu biji2 putih.. cam pasir tapi ringan...

adnil

sorry nak tanya lagi.. moss nih cam ada dua jenis :- peat moss, spagnum moss apa beza nye ek... sorrylah byk tanya tak reti nih..

cincau

Paphiopedilum FAQ

I already grow a mixed collection of orchids; will Paphs fit in with my other plants?
&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160aphs are such a diverse group that you should have no problem adding some hybrids or even species to almost any collection, regardless of your growing conditions, even if you are already growing just other non-orchidaceous plants. The ranges of light and temperature tolerances within the genus Paphiopedilum is very similar to other commonly cultivated plants such as Phalaenopsis orchids, African violets, and other common houseplants, and most are relatively easy to grow plants as long as you take into consideration their general needs.

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If I buy a Paph as a first orchid, should I buy a species, or a hybrid?

Paphiopedilum wardii 'Candor Black Pepper' HCC/AOS. Paph wardii is one of the species we highly recommend.        &#160; &#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;This really depends on your preference of flower color, size, and shape. Many people start out buying hybrids simply because there are more of them available than the species (roughly 13,000 hybrids versus about 80 species), and the hybrids often have appealing colors or patterns of color that are rare or unobtainable in the species. The garden shops, orchid greenhouses, and orchid shows will feature a multitude of different types of Paph primary hybrids, Maudiae types, and complex Paphs, but often also a smaller selection of Paph. species.
&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;&#160;Hybrids are often more tolerant about their growing conditions than species can be, and for that reason can sometimes fit more easily into general orchid collections, or more casual growing conditions for the first time Paph grower. On the other hand, there are many species, particularly those that have been extensively seed grown, that are among the easier plants to raise, and are inexpensive "starter" plants. Species such as Paph. sukhakulii or Paph. wardii are very easy to flower, attractive even when not in flower due to their mottled leaves, compact in size and not terribly finicky about growing conditions. Most of the mottled leaf 'Maudiae' type hybrids are readily available, inexpensive, and make excellent easy to grow and flower hybrid choices. Vinicolor Maudiae types, ranging in color from deep merlot to dark raspberry, have become especially prevalent in the trade, and where 10 years ago, they commanded very high prices, today they can be purchased for around $20 or less even in flower.

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Whereas Maudiae types prefer to be grown warm, the so-called complex Paphs will tolerate a wider range of temperatures and less amenable conditions. Complex Paphs were derived from several Paph. species, incorporating Paph. spicerianum, Paph. villosum, Paph. niveum, Paph. bellatulum, Paph. insigne, and others. Over decades of breeding the complex Paphs have become very large, very full flowers in a broad spectrum of colors, ranging from solid white to dark true reds, to solid greens, yellows brushed with green, and those with prominent mahogany splotching on the dorsal.

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How big does my Paph have to be to bloom?
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Predicting blooming size by leaf span can be difficult, as there is not only tremendous variation between the different species, but clonal variation within a species. Differing growing conditions between growers can also produce 'blooming size' plants at different rates. Also, vendors have independent ideas about what constitutes 'blooming size', based on their particular growing conditions. Obviously only limited generalizations can be made within ranges as wide apart as the diminutive Paph. barbigerum and the huge Paph. kolopakingii, but probably one of the best indicators that a plant has reached potential blooming

Look close for the flowering Paph. barbigerum in the front of the Paph. kolopakingii.        &#160; size is when a new growth starts. This is not always the case, though, as some plants grown in less than optimum conditions will have to produce multiple growths before flowering, and a few species tend to impart a "clumping of growths" prior to flowering trait.