jarak antara servis bergantung kepade jenis minyak enjin..fully synthetic setiap 10000 km…semi-synthetic setiap 5000-7000 km..ape yg sc cadangkan itu adalah beranggapan minyak yg digunakan dr jenis semi-synthetic…dan ape yg tuan tulis “sepatutynye” hanye betul jika menggunakan mynk enjin jenis fully synthetic…harap maklum.
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Terima kasih saudara Zul kerana memberi pendapat.
Apa pun, sejak mula memiliki kenderaan sendiri – Toyota Corolla KE20 – pada pertengahan dekad 70an hingga hari ini, admin hanya menggunakan minyak mineral dan tak pernah sekali pun menggunakan minyak sintetik. Pada mulanya, apabila teknologi penghasilan minyak mineral masih belum sampai ke tahap hari ini, admin juga menukar minyak injin sekitar 3,000 batu atau 5,000km. Namun pada awal dekad 80an, setelah CALTEX mengeluarkan minyak mineral Multigrade dengan saranan untuk menukar setiap 10,000km, maka berakhirlah ritual menukar minyak injin setiap 5,000km.
Alhamdulillah, hingga hari ini admin tak pernah buat Overhaul injin – kereta Honda Civic 2nd Generation bertahan sehingga hampir 30 tahun sebelum bertukar tangan, Toyota Liteace Premio sudah hampir 18 tahun tapi masih belum pernah ditambah minyak injin hingga di servis (D.I.Y.) pada setiap 10,000km, dan begitu juga dengan Hyundai Matrix milik isteri…..sudah hampir 9 tahun namun minyak injinnya tak pernah susut walaupun hanya menggunakan minyak mineral PETRONAS 15W40 dan jarak antara servis @ 10,000km. On second thought, mungkinkah kerana kereta yang admin selenggara sendiri bukan keluaran PROTON atau PERODUA justeru injinnya tahan walaupun hanya menggunakan minyak mineral dengan jarak servis 10,000km !!!
Atau…..bagaimana kalau saudara Zul Amri fahamkan intipati artikel di bawah ini yang pernah termuat – bukan dalam Facebook atau blog kerdil seperti UPBB tapi dalam ruangan Spectrum akhbar The Sunday Tribune bertarikh 7 Julai 2013.
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good motoring
Pouring oil over driving troubles
H. Kishie Singh
Every now and then we read in the Press that a contaminated blood transfusion has been responsible for a patient’s death. If your car has a contaminated oil transfusion, it will kill your engine. Engine oils have changed tremendously in the last couple of decades. First, there are synthetic oils available that have some amazing properties. Even the mineral oils that we have been using are of an improved quality. Earlier, oil changes were recommended at 3000-5000 km. The period of mineral oils change today is 10,000 km. For a synthetic oil, it is 20,000 km.
Why this difference and what does it do for the car? First, the lubrication is so good, both mineral and synthetic that one hardly has to overhaul engines. A good lubricant is the reason for the longevity of your engine. Metallurgy also makes a strong contribution. It is normal today for any car to have done 200.000 and an engine overhaul is nowhere in sight. Simply put, maintenance costs have reduced drastically. Synthetic oils have one thing going in their favour. They are not depleting our natural resources. Even though synthetic oils cost three times as much as other oils, the ecology conscious may favour this oil. Another plus point is that it will improve the fuel consumption of the car. Of course, a 20,000-km drain period is also a plus point. It saves time and for a lot of motorists it could be a once-a-year job.
Whatever be your choice, go for a well-known brand. Most cars today have high performance engines and they demand a high-quality engine oil. It is highly recommended to go to your dealer. They know more about your car, the oil and filters than all the roadside mechanics put together.
The new engines are built to very exacting specifications. The piston has a very tight fit in the cylinder to improve compression and, consequently, power. The oils are thinner to flow between the piston and cylinder walls to provide lubrication. This means lower friction to moving parts and a long life to your engine. In addition, being thinner, it disperses to every nook and corner of the engine to provide lubrication.
The oils have better detergents to remove carbon deposits, prevent rust and is also a heat absorber. Some motorists prefer to go to a service station on even a roadside mechanic. Try and avoid this.
Should you have your favourite mechanic, buy your own oil. Make sure the seal is intact. Do not buy from a barrel of bulk oil. There will be adulteration. To save a few dollars you could damage your engine. The filter should be Original Equipment, O.E. Filters are easily duplicated and could kill an engine as easily as does spurious oil.
A good lubricant is the life-blood of an engine. The filter is the kidney and liver and the performance of the lube oil is as good as the filter. If the filter cannot keep the oil clean and pure, be prepared for major surgery. An engine overhaul.
Another very important thing to keep in mind is that after draining the oil and the roadside mechanic has tightened the drain plug, its time to pour in the oil. Remove the dip-stick. Air is trapped in the sump and this won’t allow the oil to fill the sump. Removing the dip-stick will allow the air to escape and oil will fill the sump. Wait a couple of minutes, allow the oil to get to the sump. Put in the dip-stick, check oil level. Ok? Start the car. Let it idle, then rev up the engine. As the pressure builds up, if the drain plug leaks it will show up now. No Leak? Head home, keep an eye out for the red light on your dash board that shows an oil can. It should not show up. The next morning, if you re-check the oil level. All the oil has settled down into the sump. The dip-stick will give you a very accurate reading. Check the floor for any oil leaks.
Post time 26-8-2013 03:02 PM
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